Re: Can someone point me to
In general the hardest finish is waterborne acrylic. Among oil based finishes, a phenolic resin varnish is probably the hardest followed by an alkyd resin and taking up the rear is standard...
View ArticleRe: One drawer went terribly wrong
What you are dealing with is cheap factory furniture. When furniture is going to be painted, factories use cheap lumber that is not matched and absorbs stain in a very variable way. Because it is...
View ArticleRe: Poly wood?
Google "poly wood" and/or "polywood" That should turn up some poly coated lumber.
View ArticleRe: advice on tacky stain spots
Cedar wood exudes a resin that will impead the drying of oil based finishing products. When dealing with cedar, a coat of dewaxed shellac should be applied as a barrier to the resin. The best was to...
View ArticleRe: newb needs advice gluing up an end grain cutting board.
Couple of caviets: First, sanding is s poor way to remove an existing finish. Sanding does not remove the finish that has been absorbed into the wood Leaving a residue of prior finish can reduce the...
View ArticleRe: Making a plank board countertop
Bad idea as Matt has said. The significantly differing rates of expansion/contraction of solid wood and ply wood will lead to warping, splitting and other damage.
View ArticleRe: Cleaning Table Saw top
Etching and rust involve the actual removal of metal. You will never be able to fully remove the mark except by a process that removes metal. Sanding or grinding or filling in of the mark are the...
View ArticleRe: Shower stool finish
Mineral oil is fine but it will require fairly frequent re-application of the oil. The shower water will tend to rinse off the oil. If it were me, I would coat it with an oil/varnish mixture. This...
View ArticleRe: RUST-OLEUM "Ultimate Polyurethane" - Spray Can vs. Paint Can - Same...
According to Rust-Oleum, both the brush on and aerosol spray are waterborne acrylic polyurthanes. They should be completely compatable. I suspect, the issue is the color spray you applied. The...
View ArticleRe: Sneak Preview
Why lacquer? Shellac is just as protective. Lacquer will also dissolve the underlying shellac and be a problem if you are brushing on the lacquer.
View ArticleRe: Sneak Preview
>>>> The lacquer is a much more durable finish Unless you are using a two part lacquer, NC laquer is not any more protective or durable than shellac. Shellac is actually harder than lacquer.
View ArticleRe: File this one under 'Who Knew?!"
Are there any good aluminum welders in your area? My shop broke a cast tool frame and a good custom boat builder was able to weld it up. A little fileing and some sanding made it as good a new.
View ArticleRe: Splits in Wood.
Those splits in end-grain are more rightly called "checks". They are generally a defect caused by uneven drying of the board. If a green board was not end sealed within a couple of hours of bucking...
View ArticleRe: Looking for 1-1/2" thick Plywood
In my shop, we frequently laminated two 3/4" sheet together. We used solvent based contact cement. We had a contract with a bank chain to make teller counters that we laminated plastic laminate to...
View ArticleRe: Refinishing adirondack question
Urethane finishes are rapidly degraded by the UV in sunlight. The UV causes the finish to crack and peel. Minwax Helmsman is one of the poorest for this problem. Your best bet is to use process...
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